Yesterday, Susie and I drove the 75 miles north of Bluff to
an area called Indian Creek Corridor on route to Canyonlands National Park. Our
purpose was to re-visit a famous archaeological site known as Newspaper Rock,
located in what currently remains of the Bears Ears National Monument. While rock
art, whether it appears as petroglyphs, pictographs, or geoglyphs, can be found
all over the Southwest, this extraordinary collection is nearly without
parallel.
A large and nearly flat sandstone surface of 200 square feet
is covered by a thin coating of a natural varnish consisting of manganese and
iron deposits. For more than 2,000 years, people have chosen this place to
engrave their ideas, aspirations, fears, and beliefs by pecking away at the
soft sandstone with a harder rock, such as quartz. More than 650 individual
figures of all sorts decorate the surface. Newspaper Rock is both a Utah State
Monument and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Navajos call this site Tse Hane, “the rock that tells
a story.” Located in a deep canyon near a permanent spring and a running
stream, this location has attracted a variety of cultures over the past 2,000
years. Images on Newspaper Rock have been attributed to prehistoric people
representing the Archaic, Basketmaker, Anasazi, Fremont, and some contemporary Pueblo
cultures. There are also images from the historic period, including creations
by Utes, Navajos, and European Americans. The presence of horses and riders
indicate some were made after the Spanish arrived in the area.
By no means is this the only rock art panel in the area.
Within a short one-mile walk from Twin Rocks Trading Post, you can hike Cottonwood
Canyon and see panels of very large horse figures, almost certainly created by
Utes. Five miles south of Bluff, the vast petroglyph panel at Sand Island
campground stretches over a quarter mile in area and some images are high
enough to require ladders or scaffolding for the artist to reach. About ten
miles south on Comb Ridge, the small Wolf Man Panel and the overwhelming
Procession Panel, with its 187 tiny figures of people seemingly marching into a
central circle, can be viewed if you are willing to hike up the 1,800-foot
incline to the site.
There is a massive collection of literature from the
archaeological community analyzing the rock art of the Southwest and entire
scholarly careers have been based on the subject. Many anthropologists reject
the notion that these hand-pecked images on the stone constitute an artistic
statement. They cite the difficulty of dating the images, identifying possible
uses, and what served as their inspiration or purpose. To me, they are art and
represent the concerns, visions, or aspirations of their individual creator.
Whether inscribed 2,000 years ago, or more recently, they all say the same
thing, “I am alive, and I was once here at this place.”
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